Forgotten favorite restaurants

We were reminiscing the other day about days of old and how my mother's side of the family would routinely do a big Christmas dinner at Fussell's restaurant in Clinton. 

Oh, those were joyous times. Those fancy dinners took place at the "steakhouse" side of Fussell's. And you better believe there was a salad bar! There was a diner side of the place, too; legend was my grandfather ate lunch their roughly every day. 

Sadly, neither Fussell's is still around. But that got me wondering about other long lost (but definitely not forgotten) restaurants across the Old North State?

Joints that rep N.C. ... but aren't in N.C.

A buddy of mine (hey, Matt!) told me last week about his visit to Pine State Biscuits in Portland, Oregon. What initially caught my eye was his photo of a Cheerwine container being used to hold condiments. "Hey, that's pretty cool!" was my initial thought. But then Matt pointed out that Pine
State Biscuits was started by three guys from North Carolina. (And, let's face it: "Pine State" can work here or in the Pacific Northwest.)

Here's a little bit about Pine State Biscuits, courtesy of their website:

Pine State Biscuits began as a brainchild centered around…what else? The quest for the perfect, buttery, flaky, homemade biscuit. Kevin Atchley, Walt Alexander, and Brian Snyder knew biscuits all too well from growing up in North Carolina, but having relocated to Portland, Oregon, they craved the down­ home­ cooking they knew from childhood. So they banded together and decided to bring the Southeast to the Northwest.

This got me wondering about other restaurants around the country with North Carolina-inspired foods or ambiance. The most famous one that I first thought of was Brother Jimmy's BBQ in New York City. Brother Jimmy's has become a Mecca of sorts for people in NYC (and Maryland and Florida, among other places) who crave a taste of home -- or of ACC basketball.

Brother Jimmy’s has celebrated over 25 years of legendary North Carolina, slow-smokin’ barbeque. As suggested by the restaurant’s slogan – “Put Some South in Yo’ Mouth” - Brother Jimmy’s mission was, and still is, to bring “down-home” cooking, hospitality and merriment to the heart of the Northeast.

Over the years, Brother Jimmy’s established itself as the home away from home for A.C.C. Alumni. Homesick alums from Duke, UNC, N.C. State, Georgia Tech, U.V.A., Clemson, Maryland, and Wake Forest began to flock to Brother Jimmy’s to catch the big Duke/UNC game, or to watch the Demon Deacons take on the Terps. By opening in Manhattan’s most popular neighborhoods, Brother Jimmy’s found a home in the hearts of New Yorkers. It has become the restaurant in NYC that reminded Southerners what good ‘ol Southern hospitality was all about and showed Northerners just what they’d been missing all these years.

Any other places around the country (or the world, for that matter) that offer a taste of Carolina?  Does Pepsi's headquarters in New York state count?

N.C.'s best food tourism spots?

This may come off as snooty, and it's really not meant to, but since I live in Raleigh, I don't necessarily have to leave my city to enjoy great restaurants. The Capital City has come a long way over the past two decades or so in offering a veritable cornucopia of culinary delights. But that doesn't mean I don't look for those hot spots or "must-hit" spots around this great state. And there are plenty. Some are a short drive away, while others ... not so much.

In fact, a random conversation among coworkers a couple of weeks ago about favorite haunts around the state got me thinking: Just how far will you go for "food tourism?"


My grandparents, many moons ago, used to fly friends (in a small plane) from Clinton to Raleigh, just to have an evening at the Angus Barn. These days, I know a fair number of folks who can make a day or two out of heading to Kinston to see what Vivian Howard is cooking up at The Chef and the Farmer. People also sample the goods at Mother Earth Brewing as well. (Both of these are on my own personal "food tourism" bucket list.)


WRAL's Scott Mason, the Tar Heel Traveler, recently put out a map of some of the more popular restaurants in the state. Not surprisingly, many of these would qualify, in my mind, as food destinations: Britt's Donuts in Carolina Beach, the Roast Grill in Raleigh, Sherry's Bakery in Dunn (a personal favorite of mine).  We ARE in North Carolina, so BBQ places also made the cut (thank God!). And I know of people who have made the trek to Siler City just on the off-chance that they can enjoy a burger from Johnson's Drive-In before they run out of beef. Another place that I don't think made Scott's list but seems to be a sort of Mecca for some is the Beefmastor Inn (note the 'o') in Wilson County.

So a couple of questions .... what are some of your favorite food tourism sites in North Carolina? And how far are you willing to drive JUST to enjoy food? Feel free to share in the comments below.

Johnson's Drive-In image from Our State; Beefmastor image from greenolivemedia.blogspot.com

No more Andy's burgers ... well, sorta

Like Hardee's before it, Andy's Burgers, Shakes & Fries has become something of an Eastern North Carolina success story. The burger restaurant chain has been so successful, in fact, it is looking to branch out. And because of this, the restaurant has changed its name to Highway 55.

From a release:

Although the name is changing, the restaurant chain’s concept will stay the same as it’s been since its establishment in 1991 and Highway 55 will continue to deliver the brand’s traditional American classics in the same family-friendly, ‘50s diner setting. Patrons can expect to see the new Highway 55 signs in each of the 100 existing locations by the end of summer 2012, and in all new locations throughout the southeast.

The name change was sparked by a potential legal battle over the federal trademark for the name Andy’s that arose as the company prepared to expand outside of its home state. After being known as Andy’s for 20 years, founder and president Kenny Moore decided that a systemwide switch to Highway 55 was the most cost effective way to grow the brand, and would mark the beginning of its next 20 years of success.

“We’re looking at the name change as a positive opportunity to start new and fresh,” Moore said. “Customers will see we’re the same Andy’s they’ve always known, the only difference is the new name. What we’ve built for the past 20 years isn’t going to change at all.”

The company certainly knows where its bread is buttered.

"To celebrate the new name, a mural map of Highway 55, a 192-mile highway stretching across North Carolina from Durham to Oriental, will be painted on the walls of each location. A timeline painted above the map will give patrons a glimpse of Highway 55’s history from 1991 to the present," said the release.

“Some of our locations are 20 years old, so we are using the shift to Highway 55 as a way to refurbish,” said Moore. “We’re changing uniforms and signage – we’ll gradually phase out the old name and logos.”

Moore originally selected the name Andy’s back in 1991 when he opened his first location in Goldsboro, N.C. Andy, Moore’s son, was 18 months old at the time. Since its inception, the chain has stayed true to its classic American concept while growing to include more than 100 restaurants across North Carolina. This year, as Highway 55, the chain will expand outside of North Carolina for the first time when a location opens in Myrtle Beach, S.C. The Myrtle Beach restaurant is the start of a greater plan to open 275 additional restaurants in the southeast over the next 6-7 years.

Of those 275 locations, area development agreements are in the works to open 100 locations in Florida—with the first location to open in Palm City— 75 locations in western North Carolina, and 50 locations in South Carolina and Virginia each. A new location in Snow Hill, N.C. is slated to open in mid-February, and the Myrtle Beach location will open before April. Looking ahead to the fourth quarter of 2012, a store in Greenville, N.C. is planned to open near the end of the year.

Longtime Andy’s franchisees J.R. Cottle and Chris LaCoe are partnering together to develop the 50 upcoming South Carolina Highway 55 locations. Cottle currently owns three North Carolina restaurants—in Rockingham, Lumberton and Locust, and LaCoe owns four in Gum Branch, Leland, Shallotte and Surf City.

“We’re positioned to go into this year with a new name, a fresh start and ambitious plans for growth,” Moore said. “People will watch and see Highway 55 really take off this year.”

Thoughts on this? I'm kinda "meh" with the name change.

'Tar Heel Traveler' does the food tour

WRAL's Scott Mason may have the best gig in the state. He gets to travel all over North Carolina as part of his "Tar Heel Traveler" segments, taking him to interesting locales, meeting unique people and discovering the varieties of culture in this beautiful state.

Mason's most recent "Traveler" was a 25-minute-long exploration of some of Nawth Cackylacky's culinary hotspots. (Although, truth be told, very few of these places are probably recommended by heart doctors.)

Among the places noted in the special are Britt's Donuts in Carolina Beach, the Sunnyside Oyster Bar in Wilson and Flo's Kitchen -- home of the "Cathead Biscuits."

What's the food you must eat in your county?

Our State magazine has published a list of the "must-eat" foods from all 100 North Carolina counties. You can view it here (PDF).

From those counties close to me, I'm ashamed to say I've never had the Apple Pie MmmMarmalade from Mrs. Picky Fanicky's Foods in Erwin (Harnett County). I can boast to enjoying a steak from the Angus Barn (Wake County), 'cue from Kings (Lenoir County) and the ribs from 12 Bones in Asheville (Buncombe). I've also been to the Beaufort Grocery Co. (Carteret County), but have not had the Apple Granny Chicken Sandwich; same with the Magnolia Grill's grits concoction (Durham County).

And one of these days I'm gonna brown bag it to he Beefmastor (Wilson County).

Quick hits: Tupelo Honey plans second joint, and the American chestnut makes a comeback

Tupelo Honey plans second Asheville restaurant
"Tupelo Honey Café plans to open a second Asheville location by early next year," says the Citizen-Times.

"The popular downtown eatery will open a larger restaurant in the former Stir Fry Café building at 1829 Hendersonville Road in south Asheville by mid January or early February, owner Steve Frabitore said.

"The original restaurant at 12 College St. will remain, he said.

" 'You will walk in and immediately recognize that it’s Tupelo Honey Café,' Frabitore said of the new site. ..."


Altered chestnut trees succeed
"In stands of tiny trees in North Carolina, Tennessee and Virginia blooms the hope of restoring a mighty giant, as scientists try to bring back the American chestnut from near extinction.

"Five hundred blight-resistant American chestnut saplings are thriving a year after they were planted in three national forests, a milestone in the long-term effort to re-establish the tree in its native habitat," says the N&O. "Reviving the chestnut, decimated by a fungus, would reverse one of the worst ecological disasters in the nation's history, reviving a major source of food and lumber that forest animals and humans have missed for more than a century.

"The cutting-edge genetic research that offers the promise of a blight-resistant hybrid could, if successful, also be used to stop the damage to U.S. forests by other exotic pests, such as bark beetles, the woolly adelgid and Dutch elm disease.

" 'If it works, there is a long line of similar ecological problems that are waiting for similar kinds of solutions,' said Ron Sederoff, a professor in the Department of Forestry and Environmental Resources at N.C. State. 'There are 100 different threatened trees in our American forest, and each one has a disease or a pest that potentially could do as much damage as the blight did to the American chestnut.' ..."

Good eatin' in the Queen City

Southern Living proclaims that if you nibble "your way through Charlotte," then "you'll taste the New South."

"Shining on the Piedmont with a modern skyline and brimming with emerging restaurants, this is a city that savors the fresh and the new," says the publication.

"Charlotte's emergence on the food radar -- a recent and welcome debut -- combines fascinating ingredients: a surging urban renaissance, support from the country's No. 2 banking town, and fresh talent from the newest campus of Johnson & Wales University. This well-respected culinary school's 2004 relocation from Charleston, South Carolina, cemented Charlotte's position as the South's new food city."

Southern Living goes on to give a neighborhood-by-neighborhood tour of Charlotte eats, including Uptown ("Power lunches by day, buzzing nightlife after hours"), SouthPark ("Trendy and traditional," including The only Dean & DeLuca Wine Room in America) , and Plaza Midwood, Elizabeth and more ( an "edgy, eclectic" neighborhood).

Land of Sky? More like Land of Great Food

The family and I were in Asheville last week for a conference. The conference allowed ample time for getting out and enjoying that city's culinary delights -- a couple of which were new to us.

Upon the suggestion of a former co-worker, we headed to the River Arts District for some barbecue from 12 Bones. We were told to get there early for lunch (they only do lunch). We tried, but failed. Getting there at roughly noon, we still had to wait in line a half-hour just to get in the building. There were people in line from Atlanta who traveled to A-ville just to sample 12 Bones.

But man, oh man, was it worth the wait. I ordered the barbecue plate, which came with two sides and cornbread. I opted for the jalapeno cheese grits and macaroni and cheese. Being a 12 Bones virgin, I also got a side of three rib just to sample them. That was a mistake - not because they were bad. In fact, they were stupdendous. But it was a mistake to order all that food. I never even got to the cornbread, and didn't finish the sides. Oh, and the plate was just $6, not counting the ribs. It's an amazing amount of food for the price.

My wife, by the way, got the BBQ sandwich with two sides: corn pudding (probably the best thing between the two of us) and sweet potato casserole.

(Note: The barbecue is of the pulled variety, not chopped. However, it favors more Eastern N.C. style than Lexington.)

My one regret? That I didn't buy a 12 Bones t-shirt. (Slogan was something like: "Juicy butts. Sweet racks.")

Oh, and by the time we left at around 1:45, the line outside was still 40-or-so people deep.

Later that night, our last night in Asheville, we waddled our way to downtown for dinner at Tupelo Honey Cafe, a place that was closed for renovations the last time I was in Asheville. We were still stuffed from our earlier pork adventure, but we fought through. And we were so glad we did.

Tupelo Honey describes itself as a "locally owned sole proprietorship, offers old southern favorites with creative twists. It has quickly distinguished itself from other regional restaurants by presenting familiar, creative, comfort fare, healthier options, fresh ingredients, and large portions at a fair price."

They are so right, especially about the price. I ordered the sweet potato pancake (at $4 perhaps the best deal in town). That was all I ordered, and that was all I needed. Even if I hadn't been stuffed from 12 Bones, that pancake would've been plenty. The pancake has "flavored with cinnamon and sweet potatoes, topped with whipped peach butter and spiced pecans." Nice.

We enjoyed our Tupelo Honey experience so much that we seriously considered returning the next day for lunch. (In the end, we were too embarrassed to do that.)

(Tupelo Honey Cafe photo from the restaurant's website)

A Chapel Hill institution closes its doors

(OK, so I lied about yesterday's post being the last before the holidays. So sue me. I just couldn't resist not commenting on this below.)

I was in either seventh or eighth grade, and my classmates and I from Dunn Middle School made the trip to Chapel Hill to visit the Morehead Planetarium. (It was for an educational show, by the way, not a Pink Floyd Lazer Show or some such.) Before the visit to the planetarium, we all went to the Rathskeller for dinner.

As a small-town boy from Harnett County, it was a cultural experience. The dankness of the place; the names written and carved into the tables and walls (we swore for years that we saw "Michael Jordan" written on our table); the bottomless cup of sweet tea.

As a lifelong N.C. State fan, I have been taught to mistrust and despise all things Chapel Hill (save for the magnificent School of Government, by the way). I will admit, however, that the Rathskeller has long stood in my mind as the quintessential college hangout.

Well, it is no more.

"Signs in the windows of the 59-year-old business stated the department had seized the property because taxes on it had not been paid," writes the Fayetteville Observer. "A note posted on the restaurant’s Web site by owner Francis Henry made it unclear when or if the place will reopen. ...


"That sense of history is part of what endears the place — known for serving extra cheesy lasagna, greasy steaks and apple pie topped with cheese — to alumni."

Genny Lou Exum, who lives in Fayetteville and graduated from UNC in 1958, likened the Rat to Franklin Street’s version of the Old Well, a campus landmark.

“I think the charm of it just never, ever leaves you,” she said. “I think everybody that ever went down there just fell in love with it.”

R.I.P., Rat.

Quick hits: Food accolades and fall goings-on

N.C. eateries honored
"... For the second year, the N.C. Department of Agriculture sponsored the 'Best Dish in NC' contest for restaurants that serve products from North Carolina farms, markets and companies," writes the News & Observer. "Last week, before the Paula Deen show at the N.C. State Fair, Agriculture Commissioner Steve Troxler and Deen handed out the awards to the winners. ..."

Welcome to fall in North Carolina
"Fall is the perfect time to visit North Carolina," says VisitNC.com. "Come for our brilliant fall foliage. Enjoy the refreshing outdoor climate and linger at a scenic overlook with breathtaking views along the Blue Ridge Parkway. Experience the abundant fall fishing at the coast or camp at one of our magnificent state parks.

"Enjoy our unique fall events, from woolly worm races to NASCAR . To help you plan your visit, catch the weekly reports from our leaf watchers across the state bringing you the latest updates on when our leaves are at their most spectacular. Discover unique ways to see the fall color, from a balloon adventure to a rafting trip on the Nantahala.

"The governor has proclaimed October as 'North Carolina Wine and Grape Appreciation Month' so relax and enjoy autumn with a plate of signature NC food and a glass of our delicious NC wine. ..."

Tavern on the Green, The Lady and Sons, Emeril's ... and Bojangles?

To me, it's perfect tailgating food. For others, it's the quintessential Sunday morning hangover cure. For others still, it is a taste of home.

Believe it or not, Bojangles has become a "destination" restaurant. Heck, I know of friends who have moved away who upon coming back to the Carolinas have hit "the Bo" two or three times in a weekend.

"It started with a simple Cajun-style fried-chicken recipe. Now, 30 years later, Bojangles’ has new owners, a new chief executive and ambitious plans to face growing competition from other restaurants and chicken vendors," writes the Associated Press.

" 'To be a part of Bojangles’ now is exciting,' new chief executive Randy Kibler said. 'Bojangles’ is an incredibly strong brand and has a really good future.' ...

"Bojangles’ was founded by Jack Fulk and Richard Thomas in July 1977. The two men opened their first restaurant at the corner of West Boulevard and South Tryon Street in Charlotte. They saw an opportunity to develop a quick-service restaurant chain, offering made-from-scratch fare with Cajun spices.

"Now the private, Charlotte-based chain has 386 locations in 11 states, Honduras and Mexico, including 27 restaurants in Charlotte.

"It is unclear if the new leadership will maintain such elaborate plans. Executives say that expansion is still on, but they are more concerned about doing it right rather than fast. ...

"Smaller than competitors such as KFC, Chick-fil-A, Popeyes and Boston Market, Bojangles’ found its own niche serving familiar food - scratch-made biscuits, sweet tea and dirty rice - in the growing Southeast.

" 'People know us,' said Tom Lewison, Bojangles’ president and chief operating officer. 'They have come to trust the quality of our food and service.' ...

" 'We’ve become a destination restaurant,' said Chris Bailey, Bojangles’ director of franchise development. 'We need to stay attractive to our customers.' ..."

Cajun-fried chicken. Dirty rice. Boberry Biscuits. And that oh-so-sweet tea. Sounds pretty attractive to me.

Is it lunch time yet?